Today, we sourced a pre-owned authentic Birkin 25 in the classic Etoupe (Elephant Grey) color. So, today Shebag is producing a “Real vs. Fake” comparison video to let everyone clearly see Shebag’s top-tier replication capabilities and our mastery over the details of handmade bags.

Shebag is the true expert in replicating handmade Hermès bags. Let’s first discuss our stitching craftsmanship.

The stitching craftsmanship of the Hermès Birkin 25 essentially extends the highest requirements for “structural durability” found in Hermès’ equestrian lineage. In fact, the standards are even stricter on smaller bag models.

The entire Birkin 25 utilizes handmade saddle stitching, not any form of machine stitching. The characteristic of the saddle stitch is the use of double needles passing through a single hole in opposite directions. Every stitch forms an independent stress point; even if a thread breaks locally, the entire seam will not unravel. This method sacrifices efficiency in exchange for long-term structural stability and reparability, which is the core reason a Birkin can be used for decades.

Regarding stitch spacing, the size 25 is tighter and denser compared to the Birkin 30 or 35. Because the bag body is smaller and stress is more concentrated, Hermès further densifies the stitch spacing at critical locations like the base, corners, and handle roots. This prevents corner collapsing, thread loosening, or structural deformation after long-term use. The visual effect of dense stitching is a “stiffer” line, but the true purpose is to distribute stress across the leather.

The material used is waxed linen thread, not nylon or polyester. After repeated hand-waxing, linen thread becomes wear-resistant and moisture-proof. It creates a certain “biting” sensation within the stitch hole, actually becoming more stable the longer it is used. Over time, the thread color deepens naturally, aging in sync with the leather rather than showing jarring differences in aging.

All stitch holes are hand-pricked using an awl, not laser-cut or punched by a die mold. Hand-pricked holes are usually slightly oval and align with the direction of the leather fibers. While there are minute differences in spacing, the overall rhythm is highly consistent. This method avoids heat or cutting damage to the leather fibers, which is beneficial for long-term load-bearing.

Structurally, the Birkin 25 exists in both Sellier (Outer Stitch) and Retourne (Inner Stitch) versions. The Sellier stitching is exposed, creating a stiffer edge that demands extreme precision in tension and straightness. The Retourne stitching sits slightly “bitten” into the leather with relatively relaxed tension, allowing the leather to rebound naturally. Due to the small size, the Sellier version of the 25 demands significantly higher control from the artisan than larger sizes.

The most critical and difficult stitching area is the handle root. This location involves multiple layers of leather and endures long-term dynamic tension. The stitching angle must be slightly angled inward; it needs to lock the structure without causing bulging or thread snapping. On an authentic Birkin, the stitching here appears restrained, straight, and stable. Even under magnification, it never looks “overworked.”

Next, let’s discuss the supply chain characteristics of Hermès thread, which is another aspect of Shebag’s top-tier replication capability.

The supply chain logic for the thread used in a Hermès Birkin is completely different from ordinary luxury accessories; it is closer to the “structural materials” of the traditional equestrian system rather than decorative trim. Its characteristics can be understood through five levels: raw materials, processing, dyeing, allocation, and usage.

1. Raw Materials: The base material for Birkin thread is long-fiber linen, not synthetic fiber. The flax fibers must be sufficiently long, uniform, and high-strength; otherwise, they will fray or break when the double needles are pulled tight in opposite directions during saddle stitching. Hermès does not source ready-made thread from the mass textile market but cooperates long-term with a few traditional European linen spinning systems. These suppliers are small in scale and historically served saddlery, restoration workshops, or the high-end handmade leather industry. The core of the supply chain is not “quantity,” but fiber stability and batch consistency.

2. Spinning and Structure: The thread used for a Birkin is not a common single-ply thread, but a structure wire made of multiple twisted fine fibers. The twist level is strictly controlled: it must ensure tensile strength without being too tight. If too tight, the thread loses elasticity and acts like a saw, “cutting” the fibers inside the leather. This twist standard is not public, but the goal is clear: under long-term stress, the thread should deform before the leather tears.

3. Waxing System: The thread is not in its “final state” before entering the workshop; it is a semi-finished product. Basic wax treatment is usually done at the supply end, but the thread actually used for a Birkin undergoes manual re-waxing inside the workshop. They use natural beeswax or a beeswax composite formula, not industrial paraffin. The purpose of waxing is not just waterproofing, but creating stable friction so the thread “locks dead” inside the hole, preventing it from rebounding or loosening on its own after long-term use. This step relies heavily on artisan experience rather than a unified industrial process.

4. Dyeing and Color Management: Birkin thread is not simply “color-matched”; it has an independent dyeing system. The thread color does not seek to be exactly identical to the leather but intentionally retains a very slight color difference. The reason is that linen thread and leather have different aging paths. If they are perfectly identical initially, obvious discordance will appear years later. Dyeing is usually completed before waxing, prioritizing dye stability and low migration over brightness. This leads to minute differences in the same color across different years—this is a matter of supply chain batch management, not a quality issue.

5. Allocation and Usage: Birkin threads do not enter a “global unified inventory” system. Instead, they circulate via small-batch allocation to specific workshops. The thread an artisan uses within a certain period usually comes from the same batch to ensure the consistent aging of the entire bag. Threads are not randomly swapped across projects or workshops. While extremely inefficient for cost and management, this minimizes the risk of localized color or aging differences appearing on the finished product years later.